When you think of India, tell me, what do you see ?
Do you feel the faith of a billion souls, the taste of exotic spices and white jasmine laced through thick black hair, the smudge of turmeric on your forehead?
Our journey began in the deep South of India, by train & rickshaw we carved a pathway through the crowds, beautiful women adorned in a thousand colours and men with chestnut skin gleaming in the desert sun. When we reached Manali it was time to take the road through the Indian Himalayas on the indigenous Royal Enfield.
There’s is only one road that takes you into the furthest tip of India, it passes lush valleys with crevices that feel like they sink into the depths of the Earth and mountains so high they surpass the sky. Every few hours is a new chapter, the land- scape changes so drastically. It becomes dry and wide open, there are faces that have been carved into the mountains by the wind. With each incline you feel the air thinning and steep, rocky roads grow narrow. You are rewarded with a small hot chai and tender smiles in a small, weathered tent at the top of each pass. The climb to the worlds highest motorable-pass is the toughest, only one of us could sit on the bike as we lifted it over boulders, witnessed landslides crumble just metres ahead. One day we took our eyes off the road for one second and collided into a pile of rocks, a lucky escape that forced us into the now.
These photographs, all taken on 120mm film, are a testament of our fascination with the people who work and live in the Himalayas. They endure a difficult but exquisitely beautiful world. Always welcomed into there homes and comforted by their kindnesses.
This is how we will remember our India, the gentleness of her people and the sunlight shape shifting over endless mountains.
We decided to begin our bike trip in Manali, where you can literally find EVERYTHING you need for the trip, if your backpacking don’t worry about carrying the essentials with you around India, its all there and its cheap. We gave ourselves 3/4 days here to acclimatise at 2000m, find a good deal on the bike and one day to get used to the riding before your carrying all the extra weight. Find some tips we think will be really helpful if you’re planning your first motorbike trip in India.
Here’s a few tips we think might be handy if this is your first Indian Motorbike Trip…
Packing - There are rows & rows of the same stalls & shops selling the same thing, it is cheap which means it may not have been ethically made and it’ll fall apart, but a good option is to rent outer wear from someone who works in the motorbike rentals. We didn’t need oxygen, you never spend too long at the highest altitude passes before climbing back down, but consider that Leh is 3,500m. Things we couldn’t have traveled without were full face helmet, boots, sunglasses, a mask/bandana for the dust, cameras, small first aid kit, dust covers for bags & thermals for the evening.
Choosing a bike - You have to go for the classic Enfield. The explorers looked the best for one rider, but as a couple we opted for a classic 2016 model at 500cc. We would have struggled with a 350cc. It cost around £20 a day, we had to leave a £100 deposit and if you have a small accident like we did, there are small shops at the beginning of the journey with mechanics and welders that fix the bike super cheaply.
Accommodation - Along the route there are small villages scattered around with tents and guest houses where you can have a private room or share a rolled out futon with a line of others. Food it usually lentils/beans and rice/ chapatis, lots of chai available. Its so nice to not have many options on the road, you don’t have to think or barter, you’ll always be welcomed with warmth and kindness.
Make the most of this unique trip, savor how alive you feel, the aches and adrenaline won’t last forever and you’ll never forget it.